What the Critics say
Tiny berry- and desiccated concentration rather than botrytis characterize even the 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie. This evinces an as yet unresolved tension between fresh citrus, chalk, and alkali on the one hand, and honey, caramel, and nut paste on the other.
For all of its ripeness, there is a sense of textural firmness underlying the palate impression here. Marzipan, singed vanilla cookies, and suggestions of both peach and strawberry preserves enhance the wine’s confectionary aura, and despite its manifestly good strong acidity by vintage standards, the nearly 100 grams of residual sugar present here certainly result in a dominating youthful sweetness in its formidably long finish.
If you want this to balance on its own (i.e. not in a dessert wine capacity) then I would be prepared to wait more than a decade, and the wine no doubt has at least three in it. Pinguet says this reminds him of the 1989 1er trie bottlings at the same stage.
Widely considered to be the single greatest Vouvray domaine and one of the foremost white wine producers in the world today, Domaine Huet l'Echansonnet (as they are known in full) should require little introduction.
This walled vineyard is perhaps Vouvray’s most revered site (along with Clos Baudin). Generally regarded as the greatest of the three Huet vineyards, it makes some of the most powerful, long lived wines in Vouvray in both dry and sweet. With only a shallow top soil over solid tuffeau limestone, the vines almost immediately tap into the rich mineral bedrock, resulting in powerful, dense, yet very mineral and long-lived Chenin. The walls of the Clos are also said to help facilitate a more humid macro-climate favourable to botrytis. Accordingly, some legendary sweet wines have been produced here.
|Grape Variety||Chenin Blanc|