Sadly, half of Moreau's old-vine parcel in this vineyard is being replanted, so there are only two barrels of the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes, but its quality is some compensation for the lack of quantity, as it is one of the finest premier cru white Burgundies of the vintage. Displaying a complex bouquet of lemon oil, mandarin, Anjou pear, iodine, crushed chalk and white flowers, the wine is full-bodied, immensely multidimensional and layered, with the depth, incipient complexity and length to surpass many grands crus, structured around both succulent acids and a prodigious endowment of dry extract. While one could never describe the wines produced from this site—in the hands of any of its exponents—as chiseled out of the gates, they routinely age brilliantly, remaining vibrant with sustained bottle age. Readers who succeed in purchasing a few bottles should forget them for a decade.