There are three barrels of the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, another appellation that Moreau produces thanks to an exchange of grapes with another vigneron. Unfurling in the glass with notes of mandarin, spring flowers, crisp yellow orchard fruit and white currants, it's full-bodied, satiny and very concentrated, with striking depth and structural tension and a long, precise finish that's underpinned by a racy line of acidity. The balance here is simply perfect and aside from Domaine d'Auvenay's rendition I don't think I tasted a better Chevalier-Montrachet in the vintage.