The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot is stunning, and further testimony that Moreau is this premier cru's finest exponent. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp yellow apple, pear, iodine and subtle smoke, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with incredible amplitude and dimension but above all a compelling sense of tension and reserve despite its broad shoulders and undeniable concentration, underpinned by racy acids that aren't to be taken for granted in Morgeot and concluding with a long, saline finish. This is very much a wine to forget in the cellar while drinking the domaine's more precocious premiers crus, as it is built for the long haul.