To the already colorful array of sources for this largely tank-raised bottling from contract fruit – including significant contributions from Dhroner Hofberg, Kröv, young parcels at the Immich estate, and the Saar’s Oberemmeler Altenberg and Wiltinger Klosterberg – has this year been added a 15 percent contribution from Reil. In the process, a volume of 50,000 bottles has been reached. “There’s a huge amount of really old vine material here,” noted Kollmann, and one senses it. Lemon and kumquat deliver piquancy and tang on a penetrating nose and extract-rich but buoyant palate. A bright, exuberant, whistle-clean, adamantly dry finish delivers consummate refreshment without letting up on the piquancy, and permits a clear view of stony and mouthwateringly toasted shrimp-shell nuances.