The fruits of Malberg’s thus far six-year rebuilding of an abandoned site high above the Spitzerbach--of which this wine represents the first bottled result--are and will continue to be handled à l’ancienne, including crushing, extended skin contact, and aging in acacia cask for 18 months. The results display an unapologetically oxidative cast and chewy phenolics as well as formidable density. A fresh spinach-like meld of bitterness, nuttiness and sweet vegetility marries with tart-edged apple and piquant pit-inflected white peach. There is ample sappy primary juiciness persisting through a long finish that also supplies plenty of head-scratching intrigue. “It’s not supposed to taste like Riesling,” remarked Malberg. “It’s supposed to taste like Brandstatt.” I can well imagine it being a long keeper, but that’s merely an intuition. Drink: 2015-2020 (Nov15) (No scores are given on request of the winemaker)
| David Schildknecht, vinous.com

Brandstatt is a recultivation project in the Spitzer Graben, the coolest area of the Wachau and about 450 meters above sea level. The original mica schist vineyard, which had been long neglected, was replanted with Riesling following the restoration of the vineyard's terrace walls. The aspiration is to press the grapes from this age-old terraced vineyard into an uncompromising wine – a wine that expresses not as much the grape variety, but more the terroir and an old winemaking tradition. With the maceration as well as the maturation in local acacia barrels, perhaps this will be a wine just like those that were here long ago.

(VMG1913)

Grape Variety Riesling
Closure Cork
Bottle Size 750ml
Brand Weingut Veyder-Malberg
SKU VMG1913