After bottling a comparably low-alcohol and unabashedly sweet Riesling from 2013 under the name “Schön Süss,” Veyder-Malberg continues to play on the vineyard name “Schön” (meaning “lovely”). Except that this year’s installment represents all 2,000 bottles worth of Riesling fruit from any vineyard that, in his words, “could be saved. And believe me,” he quips, “it didn’t look schön!” Fresh apple tartly tinged by its skin and white peach marked by its pit are mingled with honey and marzipan on an impressively diverse palate. The botrytis further contributes brown spices to the finish, but also robs it somewhat of clarity or primary juiciness. Perhaps my prognostication of ageability will prove miserly, but my experiences thus far with Austrian Riesling that is superficially akin to Mosel Spätlese have left me skeptical. Drink: 2016-2018 (Feb16) (No scores are given on request of the winemaker)