From arguably the Mount Olympus of Beaujolais vineyards, Jean-Paul’s Morgon “Côte de Py” (a slight derivation of the more common moniker, “Côte du Puy”) gives the kind of plush, wide-aspect-ratio fruit one expects from this fabled site, with a lurking, less bare-knuckled minerality than his other cru wines from Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent. It is very sappy but without being at all syrupy and definitely justifies its price-point, in range with other excellent examples from this cru-within-a-cru. The wine sees pontaneous, full-bunch semi-carbonic maceration over a full month, followed by two winters raised in demi-muids. As with all the wines, no fining or filtering takes place at bottling. ABOUT DOMAINE DUBOST MORGON This estate, established in 1902, is managed by fourth generation vigneron Jean-Paul Dubost who took over from his father in 1993. Jean Paul is farming the 22 hectare estate organically and the non-interventionist philosophy is carried through to the winemaking. JP uses no chemicals and minimal sulphur. His view is that this allows him to produce wines that express the qualities of the gamay and the specific terroirs of his vineyards. He is extremely fortunate to have some ancient vines and this is reflected in the quality of all of his wines, not least the Beaujolais-Villages, which is as good as many of his neighbours’ Cru wines.