Balsam herbs, cocoa and sweet white smoke give way to crushed black cherry and plum as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is elegance personified, silky, deep and round, yet delivering a core of saline-minerality that creates a savory sensation – umami, in a way – with masses of ripe red fruits and confectionary spices to contrast. The tannins are sweet and round, presenting a chiseled structure; yet it’s not forceful. This tapers off with a tart twang of sour wild berries under an air of lavender and violets. Wow; there is so much concentration and depth here, but also balance. In fact, there’s hardly a sign of this being from a difficult vintage. While I expect it will have a shorter life than an Uccelliera Brunello from a classic year, the 2017 should not be missed.

Critic Name: Eri Guido, Vinous.com

Critic Score:94+ points