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“As always, I extend my purview into St.-Bris, specifically to Domaine Guilhem and Jean-Hugues Goisot because a) the wines are brilliant and b) they continue to be sold at prices that are an amazing value… these wines deserve a higher profile and the truth of the matter is that quality is shoulder-to-shoulder with far more famous labels. In Goisot, we have a grower as meticulous and as principled as you will find anywhere and the results can be seen in the glass.” - Neal Martin, Vinous
“Nobody would dispute first Jean-Hugues and now Guilhem Goisot’s right to be considered amongst the very finest producers of the region. I don’t think I have ever had a disappointment in their wines (except not being able to find them!)” - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“This visit is always a pleasure – If I could find them, I would buy them!” - Bill Nanson
“…while quantities and allocations may be severely limited, these remain distinctive and at times compelling wines that I cannot recommend highly enough. Moreover, prices remain so reasonable that I feel almost guilty when I purchase them myself.” - Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
This pioneering biodynamic Yonne Domaine (the same department of Burgundy which includes Chablis) produces some of the most exciting wines of Burgundy, and also some of this region’s greatest values. For a Domaine that works in an area that most wine lovers have never heard of, Goisot has earned an unprecedented reputation in France. The late Anne-Claude Leflaive once described Goisot to us as “one of the superstars of French winemaking”, while La Revue du Vin de France rates only five Chablis Domaines on the same level or higher. This, despite the fact there is not a 1er Cru or Grand Cru classification in sight.
How has such a small, quiet, out-of-the-way grower broken into the Chablis elite? In short, they farm some of northern Burgundy’s purest limestone vineyards, possess a large proportion of old vines, and practice some of the region’s most transparent, precise élevage. Most importantly, Guilhem Goisot’s tireless, biodynamic work in the vineyard - emblematic of the finest winegrowers in all of France - places him at the very top in the greater Chablis area.
Goisot’s vineyards are planted to 10,000 vines per acre as opposed to the regional average of roughly half this density. The viticulture is certified biodynamic, and yields are kept very low. They use only homeopathic, natural treatments in the vineyard and harvests are done exclusively by hand, with several passes through the vineyard. In the winery, the philosophy is classic ‘minimalist’ with natural yeasts, a long, slow élevage, minimal fining and/or filtration only if required. Very few, if any, Chablis producers can match these exacting viticulture standards.
The wines of Domaine Goisot are for those open-minded drinkers who don’t drink vineyard names but rather are more concerned with the quality and integrity they find in the glass – in this case, they will find a great deal of both. These are intense, textural yet racy, mineral wines with a rich, stony, earthy complexity that speaks loudly of the chalky soils that typify the greater Chablis area. Think of everything you would want from a great Chablis producer (i.e, more richness, complexity and breed than you typically find) and you will be on the right track.
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