Domaine Perret emerges as a jewel in the Condrieu appellation, renowned for crafting poised, transcendent and delicately refined wines in an appellation characterized by dense, powerful, low-acid wines. The stewardship of the estate passed to André Perret from his father in 1982. André shifted from cultivating fruit trees to nurturing vineyards, seizing the opportunity to replant and secure some of the finest plots at prices that remind one of a bygone era of affordability. The Perret family, erstwhile proprietors of Domaine de la Maltroye in Burgundy before the upheavals of the Second World War, now tend 13 hectares: 5.5 in Condrieu, five in Saint-Joseph, including one hectare dedicated to white varietals, and the rest designated as Vin de Pays.

André, alongside his daughter Marie since 2019, applies meticulous viticulture, minimal organic fertilization and assiduous soil management. Their approach in the winery is equally considered. Fermentation begins in stainless steel tanks and transitions to barrels partway through for the whites. Maturation takes 10 to 12 months (from Dargaud & Jaeglé mainly), deliberately eschewing bâtonnage to preserve the wine’s innate character. They ensure each vintage undergoes malolactic fermentation, which imbues their wines with enhanced complexity and a finely woven texture. For the reds, the maceration takes three weeks, and the wines are matured for 18 to 24 months in barrels sourced from Radoux and Cadus, which explains the delicate woodiness of the wines when they are young.

The 2022s are sumptuous. Marie and André have produced delicate, ethereal wines despite the year’s climatic challenges, particularly the drought. "We were surprised to see some very well-balanced wines despite the year’s conditions, with alcohol levels lower than expected," said André during my visit. The result is stunning, delicate wines that are as tense as ever, with excellent acidity and gastronomic bitterness, and capable of aging well.