Started in 1979, this is one of the few estates in Germany to use biodynamic methods, and Peter and his family do it with awe-inspiring passion and thoroughness. The conversion was gradual and started at home: unhealthy food was banned – no white sugar, white flour or processed foods of any kind. They realised that the chemical industry was encouraging an unhealthy dependence in farmers on its products, side-lining nature in the process. So they abandoned herbicides and insecticides, anti-fungal sprays, and cultured yeasts; in 2001 they took the plunge and became biodynamically certified. They are now one of Germany’s leading growers.