This is Vassilis Papagiannakos’ calling card, affectionately known as the “Little Rooster” thanks to the black cockerel on the label. The fruit comes from seven blocks of 70-year-old, low-yielding, unirrigated Savatiano vines in Markopoulo, the PGI on the Mesogia plain of eastern Attica, just southeast of Athens. The vines grow in limestone soils on gentle, north-facing slopes at around 100 metres above sea level.

The grapes are hand-harvested in mid-September, then fermented for around 20 days in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. It’s a lovely snapshot of why old-vine Savatiano deserves more attention: delicately aromatic, textural and dry, with plenty going on beneath the surface.

The Old Vines bottling — instantly recognisable by the little rooster on the label — is perhaps the clearest introduction. It has the authority good Savatiano can possess when yields are low, and the fruit is handled carefully: orchard fruit and herbs rather than perfume, limestone-derived energy and a gently stony texture that wraps around the tongue like a fine Mediterranean Chardonnay.